built right into formulas, every paint requires proper primer on substrate, under lament, or bare surface.

Good rule of thumb, “Primers bond better to substrates than quality house paints do, and quality coatings bond to primers much better than substrates themselves. When your doing siding repairs, most new siding has a factory primer, making repairs and replacements less costly, not having to prime. Many other primers are described below for drywall to siding, exterior painting and metals, naming general types, and not suggesting name brands.

Aluminum, Galvanized Steel

Clean surface, especially new rolled flashing and Galvanized surfaces, removing the oils that are applied in the factories, during production. Best cleaner is 50% vinegar and 50% water using a quick wipe down method.  Also remove any crayon wax markings, and oxide powder applied from factory. Apply an Acrylic Latex rust-inhibitor primer, allowing to dry, and top coat with a quality 100% Acrylic Exterior finish coat.

Drywall

Drywall mud and textures are a very porous material when dried. Priming before and after textures provides two different benefits. Priming before texture, allows texture to be applied more evenly, and allows texture to bond better to primer than drywall itself, especially when doing a knock-down texture, scraping points off with broad knives. Priming after texture allows paint finish coats to go on more evenly, without soaking into texture, not having dull and shinny spots. Drywall primers are generally flat PVA primers which dry rather quickly, and have spread rates of 250-300 square foot per gallon.

Ferrous Metal

Clean surface, typically found with steel pipe handrails, outside stair stringers, and I beams.  Removing as much rust as possible, a power tool works well for large areas, and steel wire brush for smaller ones. Remove dust from scraping, and apply 2 coats of rust-inhibitor primer, allowing to dry before applying top coats.

Masonry

These surfaces are typically very porous and require a block filler that will seal cracks and crevices before finish coats. Normally these coatings use a spread rate of 100-150 square foot per gallon, and a spray and back-roll method is recommended. Finish coats will cover more uniformly and not see any dull spots to shinny ones.

New Wood

Exterior Painting in Aurora Colorado

Exterior Priming and Painting in Aurora CO.

A high quality latex or oil based wood primer. Make sure primer has stain blockers when covering stains, open grains, and sappy woods. Using Alkyd oil based primers, latex finish coats can be applied over, but not the other way around. Typically spray, brush or roll methods of application. If siding has no factory primer, best applying thin coat for adhesion properties.  If new Cedar Siding is used, no need for primer when using Solid Body Stains, as you want some of the stain to soak into the wood, and not lay directly on top of surface.

Repaint

Need to check what is previously used, as to above (New Wood). Scrape all loose mills currently peeling up, and those that have air pockets lying underneath, ready to peel up. Sand and feather edges, so when painted, mill thickness differences will not be seen.  Priming entire surfaces are not required just because paint has become dried and chalky. Only when bare substrates are exposed, but if so many bare substrates on a particular wall or structure, it may be wise to prime entire substrate. Primers will maximize adhesion and uniformity appearance.

Weathered Wood

Best to sand down to new wood grain, allowing bonding primers to adhere and bond to substrates properly. Mostly found on trim, scraping, sanding, and feathering mill thickness edges before applying Alkyd or Latex primers. Also best to purchase top quality primer, which provides better bonding characteristics to substrates.

• If you have had any related priming concerns, we would like hearing from you.
• If this article has been helpful priming different surfaces, we would like hearing from you also.
• And don’t forget to visit our Flagship site Painting Denver and sister sites; Eco Paint Specialists, Painting Interior , and Painting Exterior being more specific to certain areas of house painting.

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How many times has it happened having the same can of paint used a few years before, touching up same color, it does not match? Here, we will discuss the reasons that contribute to these instances, helping elevating the uncomfortable situation.

A. How Paint Appearance Can Differ

1. Color: The hue of the subsequently applied paint could be lighter or darker, if not adequately re-mixed on original painting, or newer one. Both times, latex paint needs to be mixed thoroughly for at least 5 minutes.
2. Sheen: Sheen or Gloss can be different from areas surrounding newer touched up areas from just being fresh-newer to older and duller painted areas. What’s found to help is wetting the painting area first, lightly going over with paint.
3. Mill Thickness: Touch-up can be noticeably different, depending on how much build up of paint is laying on top of older. Good way to elevate this, is to “Feather” out the area, brushing to a dry layer on all edges.

B. Variables that can Contribute to Touch-up Problems:

1. Applying paint at different temperatures: Touching up at an extreme different temperature hotter or colder can see a difference once the paint has dried. Try painting during same temperatures, or close to the same.
2. Using different methods of application: Several methods of original application can be used to get satisfactory results, however depending on the substrate and texture, a brush can look somewhat different than a previously sprayed application. This happens generally on smooth surfaces such as exterior doors, and schedule 5 drywall surfaces which are slick smooth walls. Way to help, is spray back into container the extra paint, sealing up, to use at a later time. A previously sprayed paint will look closer to the same as before, even brushed if sprayed and saved into container to re-use.

C. Tips for Avoiding Touch-up Problems:

1. Apply PVA primer before drywall texture, allowing texture to go on uniform-ally and consistent in nature.
2. Apply PVA primer after texture, sealing the porosity of drywall, allowing paint coating to lay evenly.
3. Back-rolling is helpful after spraying, actually dunking roller into paint, and not dry rolling. This lays more paint on surface, giving a very small textured look called stipple. This allows touch-ups to be done much easier, down the road. On flat and smooth drywall, a 1/2″ roller skin should be used acquiring that stipple look.

Keeping the Sheen Constant Painting New Drywall

A. Check drywall joints:

1. To be floated or smoothed, and edges sanded, not having dimples, cracks, or ridges.
2. Check area at low lighting and also at high at all different angles
3. Last sanding should be wet sanded, giving the most smoothest finish

B. Use Appropriate Primer:

1. Interior drywall should have a PVA flat primer.
2. PVA spread rate is much different than finish coat, in that PVA’s cover normally twice as far, around 425 sq. ft. of surface per gallon. Apply just enough to seal new drywall from finish paints coat absorption.

C. Back-Rolling:

1. A higher quality Lambs Wool Skin Cover will apply paint more evenly and heavier than an economically priced one will do.
2. Keep roller strokes the same direction, as vertical as possible, keeping same pressure on roller when either rolling out or back rolling.
3. Keep roller loaded with paint, not allowing to dry-roll out edges, unless your spot painting for touch-ups.
4. Keep roller frame the same across the entire wall, never “Flipping” frame back and forth down the same wall when back rolling.
5. Rolling out final coat or back rolling will provide surface uniformity, especially on a flat smooth Schedule 5 drywall finish, leaving a paint stipple.
6. Dry time is important painting multiple coats, when a deep tint base paint is being used. Generally this time is about 2 hours at 70 degrees, so paint does not blister with added coat.

Painting Denver

Painting Interior

Painting Exterior

Eco Paint

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